The Back of Beyond: 04/04/15

Over the Andes to Mendoza

Not wanting to hang around longer in Valparaiso, my last remaining option to get further north was to ride over Paso Uspallata (aka Paso Bermejo, Paso Cumbre) between Santiago in Chile and Mendoza in Argentina. The road to the pass carries a lot of traffic between the two countries so was never going to be my first choice. At least nearly all vehicles travel through the Cristo Redentor tunnel (Paso Internacional Los Libertadores) at 3200 m, leaving the last 600 m up to Paso Uspallata largely free of traffic. Added bonus: seeing Cerro Anconcagua up close!

The ride up and over the 3832 m pass took me 3 days and turned out to be a highlight of the trip so far - despite the traffic. The scenery was spectacular and it was fascinating to observe the route of the old Transandino railway line, which used to form part of a rail link between Buenos Aires and Santiago, but was abandoned after an avalanche in 1984. If the train was still running, it would surely be one of the world's great railway journeys.

I'm now enjoying the relaxed, leafy city of Mendoza and waiting for my bus ride to Salta on Tuesday.

Heading up to the pass, with a whole afternoon of climbing ahead of me.

Laguna del Inca, high up in the mountains.

I struggled to get to the entrance of Tunel del Cristo Redentor before nightfall and ended up needing my lights for the first time on this trip. I camped in the ruins of the old Chilean customs building, destroyed by an avalanche in 1984.

The ominous-looking entrance of Tunel del Cristo Redentor. But I was taking the high road, up and over the top...

Nothing like a few early-morning curvas to work up an appetite.

In front of the Christ the Redeemer statue on Paso Uspallata at 3832 m. It marks the border between Chile and Argentina.

The way down on the Argentinian side.

Passing by Anconcagua, 6961 m.

Puente del Inca, created by a build-up of minerals over thousands of years.

An station converted to a museum on the old Transandino railway line. Autumn has arrived up here.

Riding the Pan-American. Hard to top it.

Looking back up the valley of the Rio Mendoza.

Further down the valley, an old rail bridge on the abandoned line spans the river.

Early morning of the third day, still 1800 m asl and freezing cold. Rio Mendoza with the Andes in the background.

Made it to Mendoza!

To the Elqui Valley and Back Again

While soaking up the atmosphere of Valparaiso, I have also been making plans for my onward journey. My plan is to head further north, hopefully riding some big passes across the Andes between Chile and Argentina, then on into Bolivia and Peru. Unfortunately, recent storms in the Atacama desert in northern Chile have claimed lives and created a state of emergency in exactly the area I want to pass through (Atacama province).

With surprisingly little information available about the state of the roads and passes, I decided to take a bus as far as La Serena (still over 1000 km south of Atacama) and see first hand if it would be possible to cycle the Paso Agua Negra to Argentina. This is the first of the 4000 m passes between the two countries when heading north.

The streets of the seaside town of La Serena were eerily deserted when I arrived early in the morning. I ate a quick breakfast then headed up the Elqui Valley, which is on the way to Paso Agua Negra. The town of Pisco Elqui in the valley's upper reaches is famous for its Pisco distilleries. The distilleries use wine made from the grapes grown in the valley, which are known for their high quality. The landscape is beautiful: At lower altitudes, an irrigation system keeps the valley green, while the barren and arid snow-capped mountains stand in stark contrast.

I met Pierre, a fellow cyclist, and we spent a couple of fun days exploring the valley together. However, Paso Agua Negra turned out to be closed for the foreseeable future. No option but to return to Valparaiso and look for another way across the Andes...

La Serena's deserted streets.

Pisco Elqui's little church.

Heading up the valley towards the village of Horcon.

Harvested grapes drying in the sun.

Our desert camp.

Riding out of the valley the next morning. Pumps are used to irrigate the grapes growing high up on the slopes.

Valparaiso, via Pucon

Happy to have a break from cycling for a while, I spent a few days bussing north from Ushuaia to Valparaiso. I broke the journey with stops in Punta Arenas and Pucon. I started my cycling trip in Pucon about in early January. During my absence, the nearby Villrica volcano erupted so it was interesting to see the volcano again post-eruption. Previously snow-covered, it was now naked and smoking...

The name "Valparaiso" conjures up visions of paradise in my mind. Well Valparaiso is certainly no paradise, but it is a cool place and I was happy to linger a bit longer there. It's a vibrant, chaotic and colourful port city that tumbles down steep hillsides to the Pacific. Numerous rickety old ascensors (funiculars) link the downtown commercial district with the residential areas on the hills. Colourful street art is everywhere to be seen and complements the decaying old buildings. Down at the seaside promenade, a colony of seals all jostling for position on an abandoned pier was ready-made entertainment. Easily my favourite city in Chile!